This month, we’ve rounded up four of Chennai’s latest additions to the city’s constantly evolving restaurant and dine-in scene. Grab a steaming cup of filter kaapi and settle in as RITZ takes you on a culinary journey with flavours and dishes that take inspiration from North India’s plains to the sun-kissed Mediterranean coast and more.
Text: SIDDHARTH KUMAR
Svasa: Taking Your Breath Away
You can’t help but do a double-take while walking through the large, imposing black wooden gate that forms the entrance to Svasa, Chennai’s latest offering to fine vegetarian dining. Greeted warmly by the staff as I took in the positively gorgeous interiors rooted in traditional Indian architecture, I settled into my seat. Chef Dinakar greeted me soon after, who said I’d be privy to a seven-course Chef ’s Tasting Menu for lunch. He adds that the menu at Svasa (a Sanskrit term referring to ‘breath’) draws upon India’s rich culinary history while blending it with modern cooking techniques.
The first offering, a glass of Masala Buttermilk, was perfectly seasoned, with subtle hints of ginger, black salt and cilantro coming through nicely. The appetizer followed next – the Panchamrutham Pillow – a modern take on the South Indian payasam. Crack away at the pillow-like casing of ragi filo that sits on a bed of buckwheat soil to reveal a most delectable and pleasantly sweet Panchamrutham foam. Svasa’s signature soup came next – an Ode to the Plantain – a warm and comforting plantain pith soup that arrived with plantain crisps and a banana flower tempura. On to the next course – the Mock Mutton Kola Urundai and Roasted Seppankilangu. Crunchy-on-the-outside, the imitation meat was created using a jackfruit-soy mixture and rested on a layer of Green Apple Puli Inji -a wonderfully tart, spicy chutney that paired excellently with the mock meatballs. The Roasted Seppankilangu (yam) was beautifully presented on the plate and went well with the cashew and peanut chutneys. Chef Dinakar then offered up a palette cleanser in the form of a Narthangai Basil Sorbet, infused with pomegranate and basil flavours.
The first part of the main course – the Thakali Adai with Lotus Root Galwati – was up first. The dish embraces South Indian flavours while taking inspiration from the Galouti kebab, with lotus root taking the place of meat. The Adai was followed by Svasa’s innovative take on the humble Thayir Saadam – served with frozen foam buttermilk and a Podi topping. Every bite was filled with comforting goodness, thanks to the bed of Vatha Kuzhambu that was hidden away beneath the layer of curd rice – simply superb. The dessert that followed was one of the unique combinations of flavours so far – a silky-smooth Jasmine Ice Cream served with a creamy Frangipani Mousse and Pistachio Sponge. Kudos to the care taken when it came to the presentation and plating choices – the Chef and staff here clearly have a keen eye for detail – I’d highly recommend giving Svasa a try.
Do Not Miss Out On: Mock Mutton Kola with Green Apple Puli Inji, Jasmine Ice Cream with Frangipani Mousse and Pistachio Sponge
Address: Svasa, No. 42, Besant Nagar, Chennai – 600090
Call: +91 75488 15999
Average Cost For Two: ₹1500
